Growing Pinto Beans: Complete Guide to Planting, Caring for, Harvesting & Drying Pinto Beans

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If you’re looking for an easy, productive crop that can fill your pantry with homegrown food, growing pinto beans deserves a spot in your garden. Pinto beans are inexpensive to grow, fairly low-maintenance, and one of those crops that makes perfect sense on a homestead.

Most people know pinto beans as the dried beans sold by the bag at the grocery store. But those beans begin as pods growing on warm-season bean plants—and you can grow them yourself.

Here in Texas, pinto beans appreciate our long, hot growing season. Once the soil warms up, the seeds germinate quickly, plants grow rapidly, and before long you’ll have pods developing throughout the garden.

The best part comes at the end of the season. Instead of harvesting every bean while the pods are young and green, you can allow the pods to mature and dry on the plants. Shell the beans, dry them thoroughly, and store them for future meals.

In this complete guide to growing pinto beans, we’ll cover:

  • When to plant pinto beans
  • How to plant pinto beans from seed
  • Bush vs. pole pinto beans
  • Soil and sunlight requirements
  • Watering and fertilizing
  • Growing pinto beans in Texas
  • Growing pinto beans in raised beds
  • Companion planting
  • Common pests and diseases
  • When and how to harvest pinto beans
  • Drying and storing beans
  • Saving pinto bean seeds
  • Frequently asked questions

Let’s get some beans growing.

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Growing pinto beans with mature drying pods in a Texas homestead garden
Pinto beans are an easy warm-season crop that can be harvested, dried and stored for the homestead pantry.

What Are Pinto Beans?

Pinto beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) are common beans grown primarily for their mature, dried seeds.

The word “pinto” means painted or spotted, which describes their beautiful mottled appearance. Dried pinto beans usually have a light tan or pinkish background covered with reddish-brown markings.

Once cooked, the beans become tender and creamy and their markings mostly disappear.

Pinto beans are commonly used for:

  • Refried beans
  • Soups
  • Chili
  • Bean casseroles
  • Beans and rice
  • Burritos
  • Tacos
  • Slow-cooked beans
  • Homemade baked bean dishes

For a homesteader, however, their biggest attraction is storage.

Properly dried beans don’t require refrigeration or freezing, making them an excellent pantry crop.


Why Grow Pinto Beans?

There are plenty of vegetables you could devote garden space to, so why bother growing something that’s relatively inexpensive at the grocery store?

Because there’s something satisfying about filling a jar with beans that came straight from your garden.

Pinto Beans Are Easy to Grow

Once temperatures are warm enough, beans grow quickly.

You don’t have to start them indoors months ahead of time. In fact, beans generally do best when planted directly into the garden.

They’re Excellent for Food Storage

Fresh vegetables can create a preservation problem when everything becomes ready at once.

Dry beans are different.

Allow the pods to mature, dry the beans thoroughly, and put them into storage.

No pressure canner.

No freezer space.

No refrigerator.

That’s hard to beat.

Beans Can Help a Garden Rotation

Beans are legumes and have a relationship with nitrogen-fixing bacteria on their roots.

That doesn’t mean beans magically fertilize everything planted around them, but legumes can play an important role in a thoughtful garden rotation.

They’re Productive

A relatively small area can produce a surprising amount of dried beans.

Of course, dried beans weigh considerably less than freshly harvested pods, so don’t expect a handful of plants to supply all the beans your family eats for a year.

If pantry production is your goal, plant generously.


Bush Pinto Beans vs. Pole Pinto Beans

One of the first decisions when growing pinto beans is determining what growth habit your variety has.

Bush Pinto Beans

Bush beans grow as compact plants and usually don’t require a trellis.

Advantages include:

  • Easy to plant
  • Little support required
  • Great for raised beds
  • Convenient for larger plantings
  • Generally easier to harvest all at once

Bush beans are particularly useful when your goal is producing a large quantity of dry beans.

Pole Pinto Beans

Pole varieties produce long vines that need something to climb.

They can be grown on:

  • Cattle panels
  • Garden trellises
  • Fencing
  • T-post trellises
  • Arches
  • Bean poles

The advantage is vertical production.

Instead of spreading your crop across a large garden area, you can grow upward and use the space underneath or alongside the trellis more efficiently.

Always check your seed packet because growing habits vary by variety.


Fresh pinto beans
Growing Pinto Beans: Complete Guide to Planting, Caring for, Harvesting & Drying Pinto Beans 14

When to Plant Pinto Beans

Pinto beans are a warm-season crop.

Don’t rush them into cold spring soil.

Beans don’t tolerate frost well, and cold, wet soil can cause seeds to rot before they germinate.

Wait until:

  • Frost danger has passed
  • Soil has warmed
  • Days are consistently getting warmer

A soil temperature of around 60°F or warmer is a reasonable minimum, with warmer soil generally encouraging faster germination.

Unlike tomatoes and peppers, pinto beans usually don’t need to be started indoors.

Direct sowing is normally the easiest approach.


Growing Pinto Beans in Texas

Texas can be an excellent place to grow pinto beans, but our weather creates its own challenges.

The long growing season is an advantage.

Extreme summer heat can be the disadvantage.

In much of Texas, spring planting gives beans time to establish before the hottest part of summer arrives.

Depending on your location and the variety’s days to maturity, a second planting may also be possible later in the season.

Here in East Texas, humidity adds another consideration.

Give your bean plants good airflow and avoid keeping the foliage constantly wet. Crowded, damp plants can be more susceptible to disease.

Texas gardeners should also pay attention to rainfall.

We can go from soaking wet ground to hot, dry weather in what seems like no time at all.

Raised beds with good drainage can make managing these extremes easier.


Choosing a Location for Pinto Beans

Give pinto beans plenty of sunshine.

Ideally, choose a location receiving at least:

6–8 hours of direct sunlight per day.

More sun generally means stronger plants and better production, assuming the plants have adequate moisture.

Avoid low spots where water stands after heavy rain.

Beans dislike soggy roots.


Best Soil for Growing Pinto Beans

Pinto beans aren’t particularly demanding, but they perform best in loose, well-drained soil.

A good garden soil should contain plenty of organic matter without being excessively rich in nitrogen.

Before planting, you can work some finished compost into poor soil.

The goal isn’t to create an extremely rich planting bed.

You want healthy plants that produce plenty of pods—not enormous leafy plants with disappointing bean production.

A soil pH somewhere around 6.0–7.0 works well for common beans.

If you’re unsure about your soil, a soil test is much better than guessing.


How to Plant Pinto Beans

Pinto beans are wonderfully simple to plant.

Step 1: Prepare the Bed

Remove weeds and loosen the top several inches of soil.

Break apart large clumps and rake the surface relatively smooth.

Step 2: Plant the Seeds

Plant pinto bean seeds approximately:

1–1½ inches deep.

Spacing depends on the variety and growing method, but bush beans are commonly planted a few inches apart and later given enough room for air circulation.

Rows can generally be spaced approximately:

18–30 inches apart.

For pole varieties, follow the seed packet recommendations and install your trellis before or immediately after planting.

Step 3: Water

Water the soil gently but thoroughly.

Keep it consistently moist—not saturated—while the seeds germinate.

Step 4: Watch for Germination

Under warm conditions, bean seedlings can emerge quickly, often within roughly a week.

Cold soil can slow things considerably.


Can You Grow Pinto Beans From Grocery Store Beans?

Possibly.

A bag of dried pinto beans from the grocery store contains mature seeds, and some may germinate.

It’s actually a fun experiment.

Place a few between damp paper towels and see what happens.

However, grocery-store beans aren’t necessarily your best choice for serious garden production.

You may not know:

  • The exact variety
  • How old the beans are
  • How they’ve been stored
  • Their expected germination rate
  • Whether they’re well suited to your climate

For dependable results, planting seed from a reputable seed supplier is generally worth the small additional cost.

But if you find an old bag of pinto beans in the pantry and want to experiment, I certainly wouldn’t stop you.

That’s half the fun of gardening.


Growing Pinto Beans in Raised Beds

Pinto beans are a good candidate for raised-bed gardening.

Raised beds offer several advantages:

  • Improved drainage
  • Easier weed control
  • Loose soil
  • Easier harvesting
  • Convenient irrigation
  • Better control over soil quality

Bush varieties can be planted in blocks or rows.

Pole varieties are especially useful around the edges of raised beds where you can add a vertical trellis.

Just be careful about placement.

A tall wall of pole beans can shade shorter vegetables behind it.

Place tall trellises where they won’t steal valuable sunlight from neighboring crops.


Growing Pinto Beans on a Cattle Panel Trellis

For climbing pinto varieties, cattle panels make excellent trellises.

They’re:

  • Strong
  • Reusable
  • Tall enough for vigorous vines
  • Easy for tendrils and vines to climb
  • Capable of supporting heavy crops

Cattle panels can also be bent into arches between raised beds.

As the bean vines cover the arch, you’ll eventually have beans hanging down where they’re easier to see and harvest.

Just remember: only climbing varieties need this type of support.

Bush pinto beans won’t suddenly become pole beans because you give them a trellis.


Watering Pinto Beans

Beans need consistent moisture, particularly during flowering and pod development.

As a general starting point, garden beans may need around 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall, but Texas heat and sandy soils can increase that requirement.

Rather than following the calendar blindly, check the soil.

Water deeply enough to encourage roots to grow downward.

Avoid frequent shallow watering that only wets the surface.

Reduce Wet Leaves

Whenever possible, water at soil level using:

  • Drip irrigation
  • Soaker hoses
  • Irrigation tubing

This keeps foliage drier and can help reduce disease problems.

It’s especially useful in humid areas.


Should You Mulch Pinto Beans?

Yes.

Once seedlings are established and the soil has warmed, a layer of organic mulch can be extremely helpful.

Good choices include:

  • Straw
  • Shredded leaves
  • Grass clippings that haven’t been treated with herbicide
  • Pine straw
  • Other clean organic garden mulch

Mulching helps:

  • Suppress weeds
  • Conserve moisture
  • Reduce soil temperature fluctuations
  • Prevent soil from splashing onto leaves

Don’t bury young stems under a heavy pile of mulch.

Leave a little breathing room around the plants.


Fertilizing Pinto Beans

This is one crop where more fertilizer isn’t necessarily better.

Pinto beans generally don’t need large amounts of nitrogen.

Too much nitrogen can encourage impressive leafy growth while reducing the plant’s incentive to produce the crop you’re actually after.

If your soil is reasonably fertile, compost incorporated before planting may be enough.

A soil test is the best way to determine whether additional nutrients are necessary.


What Is Nitrogen Fixation?

Beans belong to the legume family.

Legumes can form a partnership with certain bacteria that live in nodules on their roots. Those bacteria convert atmospheric nitrogen into forms the plant can use.

You can sometimes see these nodules if you carefully dig up a healthy bean plant.

This is one reason legumes are often incorporated into garden rotations and cover-cropping systems.

But don’t assume that growing one crop of beans will completely fertilize your garden.

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A lot depends on the soil, bacterial populations, crop management and what happens to the plant material after harvest.


Do Pinto Beans Need Inoculant?

Not always.

Bean inoculant contains beneficial nitrogen-fixing bacteria.

If beans or other compatible legumes have grown successfully in that soil before, the appropriate bacteria may already be present.

For brand-new gardens or areas where beans haven’t been grown, using an inoculant labeled for common beans may be worth considering.

Follow the product directions.


Weeding Around Pinto Beans

Young bean plants don’t appreciate heavy competition from weeds.

Keep the bed relatively weed-free, especially during the first several weeks.

Mulching helps considerably.

When cultivating manually, work shallowly.

Bean roots can be relatively close to the soil surface, and aggressive hoeing can damage them.


Flowers and Pod Production

Once plants mature, you’ll begin seeing flowers.

Those flowers eventually develop into bean pods.

At first the pods will be:

  • Green
  • Tender
  • Moist

As dry-bean harvest approaches, they’ll become:

  • Tougher
  • Paler
  • Yellow or brown
  • Dry and papery

That’s exactly what you want.

When growing pinto beans for storage, patience is important.

You’re not trying to harvest tender green beans.

You’re waiting for mature seeds.


How Long Do Pinto Beans Take to Grow?

Days to maturity vary considerably by variety and growing conditions.

Many dry bean varieties need roughly 90–120 days to reach full dry-bean maturity.

Always check the seed packet for the variety you’re planting.

Remember that “days to maturity” is an estimate.

Weather can speed up or slow down plant development.


Companion Plants for Pinto Beans

Pinto beans can share garden space with many common vegetables.

Possible companions include:

  • Carrots
  • Cucumbers
  • Radishes
  • Squash
  • Corn
  • Brassicas
  • Herbs
  • Some flowers

Corn and climbing beans are a particularly old garden combination.

The corn provides vertical structure while the beans grow nearby.

However, modern gardeners using pole beans should make sure the corn stalks are strong enough before expecting them to support vigorous vines.

A dedicated trellis is often easier.


Growing Pinto Beans With Cucumbers

Beans and cucumbers can both be grown around trellises, but don’t let them become a tangled mess.

Both can grow vigorously.

Give each crop its own portion of the structure so you can:

  • Find the fruit
  • Inspect for pests
  • Improve airflow
  • Harvest easily

This is particularly important in humid Texas gardens.


Common Pinto Bean Pests

Unfortunately, you’re not the only creature that likes beans.

Several garden pests may show up.

Aphids

Aphids gather on tender growth and suck plant juices.

Small infestations can often be removed with a strong spray of water.

Spider Mites

Hot, dry weather can encourage spider mites.

Look for:

  • Tiny speckling
  • Yellowing foliage
  • Fine webbing

Bean Beetles

Certain beetles can chew leaves and damage pods.

Inspect the undersides of leaves regularly.

Cutworms

Young seedlings can sometimes be cut off near ground level.

Slugs and Snails

These can be especially troublesome around young seedlings during wet weather.

Stink Bugs

Stink bugs can feed on developing pods and seeds.

Regular garden inspection is one of your best defenses.

It’s much easier to deal with a small pest problem than a full infestation.


Deer and Rabbits Love Beans Too

Depending on where you live, insects may be the least of your worries.

Rabbits can quickly chew down young plants.

Deer can walk through a beautiful bean patch and treat it like a buffet.

Consider:

  • Garden fencing
  • Row covers while plants are young
  • Deer fencing
  • Other physical barriers

Physical exclusion is often more dependable than sprays that need constant reapplication.


Common Pinto Bean Diseases

Beans can experience several fungal and bacterial diseases.

Problems may include:

  • Rust
  • Anthracnose
  • Root rot
  • Bacterial blights
  • Mosaic viruses

Prevention begins with good gardening practices.

Give Plants Space

Crowded foliage stays wet longer.

Water at Ground Level

Avoid repeatedly soaking leaves.

Rotate Crops

Don’t grow beans in exactly the same place every season if you can avoid it.

Remove Diseased Material

Don’t leave heavily infected plants sitting in the garden.

Start With Healthy Seed

Quality planting seed can reduce your chances of introducing certain problems.


Why Are My Pinto Bean Leaves Turning Yellow?

Yellow leaves can have several causes.

Possibilities include:

  • Excessive watering
  • Poor drainage
  • Nutrient problems
  • Natural aging
  • Root damage
  • Disease
  • Pest pressure

Don’t immediately dump fertilizer on a yellow plant.

First, inspect the plant and soil.

Is the ground constantly soggy?

Are insects underneath the leaves?

Are only the oldest leaves yellowing?

Are several plants affected?

A little detective work can save you from making the problem worse.


Why Are My Pinto Beans Flowering But Not Producing Pods?

Extreme weather can interfere with successful pod development.

Heat stress is particularly important for Texas gardeners.

If plants look healthy and produce flowers but struggle to set pods during brutal summer temperatures, the weather may be partly responsible.

Continue providing consistent water and keep plants healthy.

This is also why planting at the right time matters.

Ideally, you want flowering and pod production occurring before the worst heat arrives.


Harvesting Pinto Beans

Here’s where growing pinto beans becomes different from growing snap beans.

You’re waiting for the seeds inside the pods to mature.

For dried pinto beans, allow pods to remain on the plants until they’re:

  • Brown or tan
  • Dry
  • Brittle
  • Papery

You may even hear beans rattling inside completely dry pods.

That’s a good sound when you’re growing pantry beans.


What If Rain Is Coming Before the Pods Dry?

Texas weather doesn’t always cooperate.

If most of the pods are mature but prolonged wet weather is approaching, you may want to harvest the mature pods and finish drying them under cover.

Spread them somewhere with:

  • Good airflow
  • Low humidity
  • Protection from rain

Don’t pile damp pods deeply into buckets.

Trapped moisture encourages mold.


How to Shell Pinto Beans

Once pods are thoroughly dry, shelling is easy.

For a small harvest:

  1. Break open each pod.
  2. Remove the beans.
  3. Discard the empty shell.
  4. Inspect the beans.

For a larger harvest, you can place dry pods inside a clean sack or pillowcase and gently crush or thresh them.

Then separate the beans from the dried plant debris.

This process is called winnowing when lighter debris is separated from the heavier beans.

And yes, it can make a mess.

Do it outside.


Drying Pinto Beans After Harvest

Even beans harvested from apparently dry pods can contain residual moisture.

Give shelled beans additional drying time before long-term storage.

Spread them in a thin layer on:

  • Trays
  • Screens
  • Baking sheets
  • Other clean, dry surfaces

Keep them in a dry location with good airflow.

Stir them occasionally.

Don’t rush this step.

Beans stored with too much moisture can mold.


How to Store Homegrown Pinto Beans

Once you’re confident they’re completely dry, transfer the beans into airtight food-storage containers.

Good choices include:

  • Mason jars
  • Food-grade buckets
  • Airtight pantry containers

Label each container with:

Pinto Beans – Variety – Harvest Year

That last part matters.

A year later, you’ll think you’ll remember.

You won’t.

Ask any gardener with a collection of mysterious unlabeled seeds.


Check Stored Beans for Problems

Periodically inspect stored beans.

Watch for:

  • Moisture
  • Mold
  • Insects
  • Unusual odors

If you notice condensation inside a container, the beans were probably stored before they were sufficiently dry.

Proper drying is one of the most important steps for safe, successful storage.


Saving Pinto Beans for Seed

One of my favorite things about growing beans is how simple seed saving can be.

Beans are generally among the easier garden crops for home seed savers.

Choose seeds from:

  • Healthy plants
  • Productive plants
  • Disease-free plants
  • Fully mature pods

Allow them to dry thoroughly before storage.

Label your saved seed with:

  • Variety
  • Harvest year
  • Notes about performance

Those notes become valuable after several seasons.

You might discover that one variety consistently performs better in your Texas garden than another.


Can You Replant Your Own Pinto Beans?

Yes.

Properly matured and stored beans can be planted the following season.

That’s part of what makes dry beans such a good homestead crop.

You can harvest food while simultaneously saving seed for next year’s garden.

If you’re growing multiple bean varieties and seed purity is important to you, research appropriate isolation practices for your particular varieties.


Growing Pinto Beans in Containers

Don’t have a big garden?

You can experiment with pinto beans in containers.

Choose a container with:

  • Adequate depth
  • Plenty of drainage holes
  • Quality potting mix

Bush varieties are usually the simplest option.

Pole varieties require a sturdy trellis.

Container-grown plants dry out considerably faster than plants in the ground, particularly during Texas summers.

Check moisture regularly.


Can Pinto Beans Grow in Partial Shade?

They may grow with some shade, but production is generally better in full sun.

Aim for at least six hours of direct sunlight.

In extremely hot climates, some late-afternoon protection may reduce heat stress, but don’t put the plants in deep shade and expect a huge bean harvest.


Succession Planting Pinto Beans

Depending on your climate and growing-season length, succession planting can extend your harvest.

Instead of planting everything on one day, you could make another planting a few weeks later.

However, dry beans require enough time for both:

  1. Plants to mature.
  2. Pods to dry before cold or persistently wet weather arrives.

Work backward from your expected fall frost date using the variety’s maturity information.


How Many Pinto Bean Plants Should You Grow?

That depends entirely on your goal.

If you’re experimenting, one small row is plenty.

If you’re trying to fill your pantry, you’ll need substantially more.

Dry beans lose a lot of apparent volume compared with the lush plants and green pods you see in the garden.

A large bean patch can turn into a surprisingly modest pile of dried beans.

Start small your first season.

Weigh your final harvest.

Then you’ll have real numbers from your garden to decide how much space to dedicate next year.

That’s far more useful than somebody else’s estimate.


Growing Pinto Beans for a Homestead Pantry

This is where I think pinto beans really earn their garden space.

A homestead garden doesn’t have to be filled entirely with tomatoes, peppers and squash.

Those are wonderful crops, but pantry crops serve a different purpose.

Consider growing:

  • Dry beans
  • Field peas
  • Corn
  • Potatoes
  • Sweet potatoes
  • Winter squash
  • Garlic
  • Onions

These crops can provide food well beyond harvest season.

There’s something particularly rewarding about walking into your pantry in January and seeing jars filled with food you grew months earlier.


Using Pinto Bean Plants in the Garden After Harvest

After harvesting, healthy plant material can be:

  • Added to compost
  • Chopped and incorporated into appropriate garden systems
  • Used as organic matter

If plants show signs of serious disease, don’t automatically add them to a home compost pile.

Removing heavily diseased material from the garden can help reduce problems the following season.


Pinto Bean Growing Problems at a Glance

Seeds Don’t Germinate

Possible causes:

  • Cold soil
  • Waterlogged soil
  • Old seed
  • Seeds planted too deeply
  • Seeds eaten by pests

Plants Grow but Don’t Produce Many Beans

Possible causes:

  • Excess nitrogen
  • Extreme heat
  • Too much shade
  • Water stress

Pods Mold Before Drying

Possible causes:

  • Excess rainfall
  • High humidity
  • Crowded plants
  • Poor airflow

Leaves Have Holes

Check for:

  • Beetles
  • Caterpillars
  • Slugs
  • Other chewing insects

Plants Suddenly Wilt

Investigate:

  • Root rot
  • Stem damage
  • Severe drought
  • Disease
  • Animal damage
Growing pinto beans in a homestead garden with mature bean pods and harvested dried pinto beans
Learn how to grow pinto beans from seed to pantry, including planting, care, harvesting, drying and storing your homegrown beans.

Frequently Asked Questions About Growing Pinto Beans

Are pinto beans easy to grow?

Yes. Pinto beans are relatively easy to grow when planted in warm soil with adequate sunlight, drainage and moisture.

Do pinto beans need a trellis?

It depends on the variety. Bush pinto beans don’t normally require support, while climbing or pole varieties need a trellis.

How deep should you plant pinto beans?

Plant seeds approximately 1–1½ inches deep, adjusting slightly for soil conditions.

How much sun do pinto beans need?

Aim for at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight daily.

How often should you water pinto beans?

Water according to soil moisture and weather rather than relying entirely on a schedule. Consistent moisture is particularly important during flowering and pod formation.

Can I plant dried pinto beans from the grocery store?

Some grocery-store dried beans may germinate, but germination and variety performance aren’t guaranteed. Garden seed is a better option when dependable production matters.

Can you eat pinto beans fresh?

Pinto beans are generally grown for the mature dried seed, although beans go through earlier edible stages. For pantry storage, allow the seeds to mature fully.

How do I know when pinto beans are ready to harvest?

For dry beans, wait until the pods become dry, brown and papery and the seeds inside are hard.

Can I grow pinto beans in Texas?

Absolutely. Pinto beans appreciate warm weather, making Texas suitable for growing them. Timing is important because extreme summer heat can interfere with flowering and pod development.

Can pinto beans be grown in raised beds?

Yes. Raised beds provide excellent drainage and loose soil and make irrigation and weed management easier.

Can I save pinto beans to plant next year?

Yes. Choose mature beans from healthy, productive plants, dry them thoroughly and store them in a cool, dry place until planting season.


Looking for more crops to add to your homestead garden? After growing pinto beans, try growing lima beans for another productive warm-season crop. You can also learn about growing gourds on your garden trellis, or add fresh herbs with my guides to growing basil, growing oregano, and growing cilantro. Growing a variety of vegetables and herbs is a great way to get more homegrown food from your Texas homestead garden.

Final Thoughts on Growing Pinto Beans

Growing pinto beans is one of those gardening projects that makes you feel a little more like a homesteader.

You start with a handful of dry seeds.

A few months later, those seeds have become rows of plants loaded with pods. Then the pods dry, you shell the beans, and suddenly you’re standing there holding food that can go straight into your pantry.

That’s pretty hard to beat.

Pinto beans don’t require fancy equipment or complicated growing techniques. Give them warm soil, plenty of sunshine, reasonable fertility, consistent moisture and enough time for the pods to mature.

For Texas gardeners, pay particular attention to planting time, extreme heat, drainage and airflow. Get those things right, and pinto beans can become a dependable addition to the homestead garden.

And don’t forget to set aside some of your best beans.

Next year’s crop might already be sitting in your hand.

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